Prof Andrew Groves

Biography

Professor Andrew Groves, a leading authority in fashion design with a focus on menswear, is currently Professor of Fashion Design at the University of Westminster. His pioneering contributions are exemplified by the founding of the Westminster Menswear Archive (WMA) in 2016, which houses over 2,500 garments. The WMA has become an essential resource for academics, designers, and industry professionals, offering insights into menswear from workwear to high fashion. By addressing a significant gap in fashion research, the archive elevates menswear as a critical area of study, fostering a deeper understanding of its cultural, historical, and material significance.

Research Interests

Exhibitions

Professor Groves has co-curated several landmark exhibitions that have reshaped public perceptions of menswear’s role in fashion:

• Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion (2024): Commemorating a century of Umbro, this exhibition explores the brand's influence on sportswear and its crossover into global fashion, highlighting its impact on modern aesthetics. 
• Undercover – From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings During COVID-19 (2021): This exhibition featured over 100 face coverings from the WMA, documenting the transformation of face masks from PPE to fashion statements during the pandemic. 
• C.P. Library (2021): Showcased in collaboration with the British Textile Biennial, this exhibition highlighted C.P. Company's influence on global menswear, particularly its transformation of military and workwear aesthetics into high fashion. 
• Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive (2019): This seminal exhibition, the largest menswear-focused showcase in the UK, critically examined the historical underrepresentation of menswear in fashion, featuring over 170 garments.

Through his work with the WMA, Professor Groves has also supported the inclusion of menswear in exhibitions at other institutions, including:

• Fashion City: How Jewish Londoners Shaped Global Style (2023), Museum of London Tartan (2023), V&A Museum, Dundee 
• Workwear: How to Wear Utopia (2023), Het Nieuwe Instituut, Rotterdam 
• Dandy Style (2022), Manchester Art Gallery 
• C.P. Company CINQUANTA (2021), British Textile Biennial and Milan

Publications and Scholarly Contributions

Professor Groves scholarly work has significantly advanced the academic study of menswear. His 2022 article, A Casual Obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council, published in Critical Studies in Men's Fashion, explores how subcultural groups like football casuals use clothing, particularly socks, to construct masculine identities.

In 2024, Groves co-authored Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive, a comprehensive examination of the archive’s collection and its role in reshaping menswear studies. The book has been widely praised for its detailed analysis of the material culture of menswear, making it an essential text for academics and industry professionals alike.

International Networks and Collaboration

Professor Groves is actively engaged in international research collaborations, notably through his AHRC-funded project, Locating the Absent Shadow (2022–2024). This project examines the cultural and industrial ties between British and Italian menswear, focusing on the fashion capitals of London and Milan, and explores how these exchanges shape design and consumer behaviour globally.

Awards and Grants

Professor Groves has secured numerous prestigious grants, including:

• £350,000 from the Quintin Hogg Trust for establishing the Westminster Menswear Archive. 
•  £167,000 from Research England’s Higher Education Museums, Galleries, and Collections Fund to support the WMA’s digital outreach.
• £43,000 from the AHRC for the Locating Menswear Network
• The ICOM Costume 60th Anniversary Award, recognising his outstanding contributions to fashion history.

Knowledge Exchange and Consultancy

Beyond academia, Professor Groves provides consultancy services to leading fashion brands, including Massimo Osti Studio. His deep understanding of menswear’s cultural and practical elements has made him a trusted consultant, assisting companies in integrating historical insights into contemporary design practices.

Research Groups / Centres

• Centre for Research and Education in Arts and Media