The Vanishing Art of Camouflage

Groves, Andrew and Leach, Robert 2016. The Vanishing Art of Camouflage.

CreatorsGroves, Andrew and Leach, Robert
Description

Against a contemporary backdrop of ceaseless military action, camouflage has been adopted by civilians as a ubiquitous pattern of our lives, adorning runways, sportswear, skateboards, toilet papers and even condoms. Used for its striking designs, its ‘patterned disorder’ and its symbolism, the exhibition explores it's artistic, fashionable and political use as a strategic and aspirational means to make the visible invisible, and paradoxically the unseen seen.

Using examples that illustrate the development of camouflage from its early military beginnings at the turn of the twentieth century through its varied relationships with artists and designers, the exhibition incorporates still imagery and film to examine the visual, stylistic, sociological, and political context; analysing its widespread appropriation – from fashion to art to architecture.

Featuring a range of historical military garments alongside their adaptive high-end fashion versions, the exhibition also includes a selection of unusual artefacts that have adapted camouflage for their own means, and questions the neutrality of blending in as a means of survival.

The Vanishing Art of Camouflage is the first exhibition to draw extensively from the newly created Westminster Menswear Archive. The archive has been founded for the purpose of establishing a collection of garments and related artefacts to encourage and develop the study of menswear design from a technical and functional point of view. The archive is also intended to advance the general knowledge of menswear as a design discipline and to be used as a resource tool to inform contemporary menswear design.

Keywordscamouflage, design, fashion, military, history, fine art, menswear, uniform
Year2016
Publication dates
Completed20 Nov 2016

Related outputs

Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion . Ambika P3, University of Westminster, 35 Marylebone Road, London, NW1 5LS 12 - 28 Apr 2024

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archives
Groves, Andrew 2024. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archives. Foundational. Exploring the Legacies and Impacts of Foundational Art & Design Education. Online 18 Jun 2024

Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion . London Westminster Menswear Archive.

Curatorial Continuum: Symbiotic inspiration between fashion collections and the fashion industry (round table)
Groves, Andrew, Sprecher, Danielle, Beach, Hannah and Hitchcock, Fenella 2024. Curatorial Continuum: Symbiotic inspiration between fashion collections and the fashion industry (round table). Beyond the Blockbuster: Exhibiting Fashion Now. Museum of London Docklands and London College of Fashion 30 - 31 May 2024

Admiral and the Aesthetic Merit of Design
Groves, Andrew 2024. Admiral and the Aesthetic Merit of Design. in: MacDonald, R. (ed.) Admiral: 50 Years of the Replica Shirt Glasgow Halcyon Publishing.

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive. London Bloomsbury Visual Arts.

Various fanzines dedicated to the casual subculture
Groves, Andrew 2023. Various fanzines dedicated to the casual subculture. 25 Kent Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11249 20 - 23 Jul 2023

BOG - Decoding the Details with the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Duffy, Eilidh 2023. BOG - Decoding the Details with the Westminster Menswear Archive. London

Representing Black British Music in the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. Representing Black British Music in the Westminster Menswear Archive. UoW Annual Black Music Symposium at the British Library. British Library 20 Oct 2023

Invisible Men in Black
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2023. Invisible Men in Black. ICOM Costume: International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume, Fashion and Textiles Annual Meeting 2023. National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh 24 - 27 Sep 2023

Investigating the Value of UK Higher Education Fashion and Textile Collections
Groves, Andrew, Briggs-Goode, Amanda, Britt, Helena and Arnold, Kevin 2023. Investigating the Value of UK Higher Education Fashion and Textile Collections. Archiving Fashion Conference: Mapping Fashion Collections. Fashion Institute of Technology, 300 7th Avenue, New York, NY 10001 11 - 11 Nov 2023

Tailored by Umbro: Football, fashion and the construction and reconstruction of Englishness through cut, fit, and style
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2023. Tailored by Umbro: Football, fashion and the construction and reconstruction of Englishness through cut, fit, and style. 2023 British Society of Sport History Conference. Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester 24 - 25 Aug 2023

Linen in Menswear 1800 - present
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. Linen in Menswear 1800 - present. in: Camilleri, A. (ed.) Le Lin, fibre de civilisation(s) Paris, France Actes Sud.

Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection
Groves, Andrew 2023. Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection. in: Woolley, D., Johnstone, F., Sampson, E. and Chambers, P. (ed.) Wearable Objects and Curative Things: Materialist Approaches to the Intersections of Fashion, Art, Health and Medicine. Palgrave Macmillan.

Locating Menswear – A Non-Hierarchical Exploration of Place and Community.
Groves, Andrew, Sprecher, Danielle, Jenkinson, Jo and Owen, Paul 2023. Locating Menswear – A Non-Hierarchical Exploration of Place and Community. Dress Devolution. Falmouth University 06 - 07 Jul 2023

The Repositioning of the Football Jersey from the Pitch to the Runway.
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. The Repositioning of the Football Jersey from the Pitch to the Runway. International Football History Conference . Hampden Park Stadium, Glasgow 30 Jun - 01 Jul 2023

Painted sheepskin coat, A/W1999
Groves, Andrew 2022. Painted sheepskin coat, A/W1999. Garden Museum 16 Mar - 19 Jun 2022

A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council
Groves, Andrew 2022. A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council. Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear Symposium. V&A Museum 13 - 14 Oct 2022 Intellect. https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00059_1

Through a Lens – A comparison of contested masculine identities as reflected in clothing, place, and portraiture
Groves, Andrew, Jenkinson, Jo and Earnshaw, John 2022. Through a Lens – A comparison of contested masculine identities as reflected in clothing, place, and portraiture. Futurescan 5: Conscious Communities . The University of Leeds 07 - 08 Sep 2022 Association of Fashion and Textiles Courses.

A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council
Groves, A. 2022. A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council. Critical Studies in Men's Fashion. 9 (2), pp. 187-206. https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00059_1

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive: A case study of garment-research as a pedagogical practice.
Groves, Andrew 2022. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive: A case study of garment-research as a pedagogical practice. IFFTI2022. University of Nottingham 05 - 08 Apr 2022 International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institute.

Face masks from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew 2021. Face masks from the Westminster Menswear Archive. Online Dec 2021 - Jan 2023

Clothing the Pandemic: A Virtual Exhibition of COVID-19 Face Masks from Around the World
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2021. Clothing the Pandemic: A Virtual Exhibition of COVID-19 Face Masks from Around the World. 23 Dec 2021

C.P. Library
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2021. C.P. Library. Darwen Library, Lancashire 01 - 30 Oct 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves, Andrew 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. London Gallery West 08 - 28 Jun 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves Andrew 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. https://opensea.io/collection/undercover-from-necessity-to-debris 11 May - 05 Jun 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. Online 11 May - 05 Jun 2021

Contaminated Objects - Collecting and Exhibiting Face Masks during COVID-19
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2021. Contaminated Objects - Collecting and Exhibiting Face Masks during COVID-19. Clothing the Pandemic Conference. Online 01 Dec 2021 - 01 Mar 2022 ICOM Costume: ICOM International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume, Fashion and Textiles.

Undercover: The Migration of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2021. Undercover: The Migration of Face Coverings During COVID-19. The Many Faces of Migration: An Interdisciplinary Unconference. online 29 - 30 Apr 2021

In and Out of Fashion - Aligning Education with the International Fashion Calendar
Groves, Andrew 2021. In and Out of Fashion - Aligning Education with the International Fashion Calendar. The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education. American University of Paris 01 - 02 Oct 2021

Introduction
Groves, Andrew 2021. Introduction. in: C.P. Company 971-021: An Informal History of Italian Sportswear Italy Tristate International SA. pp. 13-15

Undercover
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Undercover.

Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection
Groves, Andrew 2021. Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection. Curative Things: Medicine/Fashion/Art. Leeds Arts University - Online 12 Feb 2021 Leeds Arts University.

Masking Masculinity – An overview of the mask in menswear before and after COVID-19
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Masking Masculinity – An overview of the mask in menswear before and after COVID-19. Face Off: The Provocation and Possibilities of Face Masks and Head Coverings. Manchester Metropolitan University 13 - 14 Jan 2021 Manchester Metropolitan University.

Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2019. Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive . Ambika P3, London 24 Oct - 24 Nov 2019

Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2019. Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive.

Invisible Men Conference
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2019. Invisible Men Conference . Invisible Men Conference. Ambika P3 29 - 29 Oct 2019

Invisible Men: an Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew 2019. Invisible Men: an Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive. University of Westminster. https://doi.org/10.34737/qqq4v

Fashion Resource Book: Men [China Textile Press]
Robert Leach 2017. Fashion Resource Book: Men [China Textile Press]. China China Textile Press.

Fashion Resource Book [China Textile Press - China]
Robert Leach 2017. Fashion Resource Book [China Textile Press - China]. China China Textile Press.

The Overworked Body: An Anthology of 2000s Dress Curated by Matthew Linde
Linde, Matthew and Groves, Andrew 2017. The Overworked Body: An Anthology of 2000s Dress Curated by Matthew Linde. Goethe Institut, 38 Ludlow Street New York, NY 10002 10 Sep - 15 Oct 2017

Symposium: The Vanishing Art of Camouflage
Groves, Andrew 2016. Symposium: The Vanishing Art of Camouflage .

Fashion Resource Book : insupireÌ„shon o eru tame no aidea soÌ„su to jitsureishuÌ [Tankobon Softcover - Japan]
Robert Leach 2015. Fashion Resource Book : insupireÌ„shon o eru tame no aidea soÌ„su to jitsureishuÌ [Tankobon Softcover - Japan]. Tankobon, Japan.

ARCHETYPES
Leach, Robert and Groves, Andrew 2015. ARCHETYPES . London Gallery West, The Forum, University of Westminster Watford Road, Northwick Park, Middlesex HA1 3TP 15 May 2015

Fashion Resource Book: Men
Robert Leach 2014. Fashion Resource Book: Men . Thames & Hudson.

Fashion Resource Book
Robert Leach 2012. Fashion Resource Book. Thames & Hudson.

Permalink - https://westminsterresearch.westminster.ac.uk/item/q25z3/the-vanishing-art-of-camouflage


Share this

Usage statistics

193 total views
0 total downloads
These values cover views and downloads from WestminsterResearch and are for the period from September 2nd 2018, when this repository was created.