What is Fashion? Conference

Not Just Bona Rags: Rethinking Menswear and Collecting through Vince Man’s Shop
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2026. Not Just Bona Rags: Rethinking Menswear and Collecting through Vince Man’s Shop. Dress and Textile Specialists 50th Anniversary Conference: Shaping Culture through Dress and Textiles. University of Brighton 25 - 26 Sep 2025

From Necessity to Luxury: Menswear and the Evolution of Face Coverings during COVID-19
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2026. From Necessity to Luxury: Menswear and the Evolution of Face Coverings during COVID-19. Fashion, Style and Popular Culture. 13 (1-2), pp. 59-77. https://doi.org/10.1386/fspc_00332_1

Cut from a Different Cloth: Tailoring, Tradition, and Transition
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2025. Cut from a Different Cloth: Tailoring, Tradition, and Transition. 247 Headquarters, via Palermo 10, Milan 20 - 22 Jun 2025

“She could not see him put his arms around his female customers to take their measure and maintain her composure”: Tact, timidity, and touch in women’s tailoring
Dr Hannah Rumball-Croft 2025. “She could not see him put his arms around his female customers to take their measure and maintain her composure”: Tact, timidity, and touch in women’s tailoring. At Home with C19th Dress and Textiles Reframed Network. Online 28 Sep 2025

The Ladies Ulster: “Ulsters were decidedly regarded as essentially masculine attire”
Dr Hannah Rumball 2025. The Ladies Ulster: “Ulsters were decidedly regarded as essentially masculine attire”. Tailoring Identities: The long history of the masculinisation of womenswear. Pantheon Sorbonne, Paris 30 Jun - 01 Jul 2025

Preprint: Fabricated Resistance: Massimo Osti, Surveillance Masculinity, and the Politics of Tactical Dress
Groves, Andrew 2025. Preprint: Fabricated Resistance: Massimo Osti, Surveillance Masculinity, and the Politics of Tactical Dress. Fashion Theory.

Determining the Future: Pre-Creation Accessioning and the Documentation of Design Process
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2025. Determining the Future: Pre-Creation Accessioning and the Documentation of Design Process. 4th International Artefacta Conference. University of Helsinki, Helsinki, Finland 13 - 14 Feb 2025

Past, Present, Provocation: The Radical Methodology of the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2025. Past, Present, Provocation: The Radical Methodology of the Westminster Menswear Archive. 11th Hellenic Costume Society Conference. Athens, Greece 25 Jan 2025

Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2025. Westminster Menswear Archive. Fashion Theory. 29 (2), pp. 267-279. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2024.2423585

Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion. Ambika P3, University of Westminster, 35 Marylebone Road, London, NW1 5LS 12 - 28 Apr 2024

The Ulster Ulster
Dr Hannah Rumball 2024. The Ulster Ulster. Locating Menswear Forum. Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester 04 - 05 Jul 2024

Tailored by Umbro, Tailored by England: Constructing Englishness Through Cut, Fit, and Style
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Tailored by Umbro, Tailored by England: Constructing Englishness Through Cut, Fit, and Style. A Century of Umbro and the Aesthetic of Sporting Englishness. Manchester Metropolitan University 09 Oct 2024

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archives
Groves, Andrew 2024. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archives. Foundational. Exploring the Legacies and Impacts of Foundational Art & Design Education. Online 18 Jun 2024

Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion . London Westminster Menswear Archive.

Curatorial Continuum: Symbiotic inspiration between fashion collections and the fashion industry (round table)
Groves, Andrew, Sprecher, Danielle, Beach, Hannah and Hitchcock, Fenella 2024. Curatorial Continuum: Symbiotic inspiration between fashion collections and the fashion industry (round table). Beyond the Blockbuster: Exhibiting Fashion Now. Museum of London Docklands and London College of Fashion 30 - 31 May 2024

Admiral and the Aesthetic Merit of Design
Groves, Andrew 2024. Admiral and the Aesthetic Merit of Design. in: MacDonald, R. (ed.) Admiral: 50 Years of the Replica Shirt Glasgow Halcyon Publishing.

Book review: Sanda Miller, Images on the Page: A Fashion Iconography
Rumball, Hannah 2024. Book review: Sanda Miller, Images on the Page: A Fashion Iconography. Costume. 58 (1), pp. 151-152. https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2024.0298

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive. London Bloomsbury Visual Arts.

Various fanzines dedicated to the casual subculture
Groves, Andrew 2023. Various fanzines dedicated to the casual subculture. 25 Kent Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11249 20 - 23 Jul 2023

BOG - Decoding the Details with the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Duffy, Eilidh 2023. BOG - Decoding the Details with the Westminster Menswear Archive. London

"We Must Hope That the Moderates with Their Quiet Attire Are the Rising Section": British Women Friends’ Relinquishment of Plain Dress
Rumball, H. 2023. "We Must Hope That the Moderates with Their Quiet Attire Are the Rising Section": British Women Friends’ Relinquishment of Plain Dress. in: Robynne Rogers Healey and Carole Dale Spencer (ed.) Quaker Women, 1800-1920: Studies of a Changing Landscape Pennsylvania State University Press. pp. 222-244

Representing Black British Music in the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. Representing Black British Music in the Westminster Menswear Archive. UoW Annual Black Music Symposium at the British Library. British Library 20 Oct 2023

Fashion Supply Chain Management: Integrating Sustainability through the Fashion Supply Chain
Grose, V. and Mansfield, N. 2023. Fashion Supply Chain Management: Integrating Sustainability through the Fashion Supply Chain. Routledge.

Invisible Men in Black
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2023. Invisible Men in Black. ICOM Costume: International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume, Fashion and Textiles Annual Meeting 2023. National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh 24 - 27 Sep 2023

Investigating the Value of UK Higher Education Fashion and Textile Collections
Groves, Andrew, Briggs-Goode, Amanda, Britt, Helena and Arnold, Kevin 2023. Investigating the Value of UK Higher Education Fashion and Textile Collections. Archiving Fashion Conference: Mapping Fashion Collections. Fashion Institute of Technology, 300 7th Avenue, New York, NY 10001 11 - 11 Nov 2023

The Ladies Ulster in the 1870s and 1880s: From “Eccentric-Looking” to “Beau Ideal”
Hannah Rumball 2023. The Ladies Ulster in the 1870s and 1880s: From “Eccentric-Looking” to “Beau Ideal”. Textile: Cloth and Culture. 21 (1), pp. 300-328. https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2022.2084317

Tailored by Umbro: Football, fashion and the construction and reconstruction of Englishness through cut, fit, and style
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2023. Tailored by Umbro: Football, fashion and the construction and reconstruction of Englishness through cut, fit, and style. 2023 British Society of Sport History Conference. Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester 24 - 25 Aug 2023

Linen in Menswear 1800 - present
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. Linen in Menswear 1800 - present. in: Camilleri, A. (ed.) Le Lin, fibre de civilisation(s) Paris, France Actes Sud.

Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection
Groves, Andrew 2023. Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection. in: Woolley, D., Johnstone, F., Sampson, E. and Chambers, P. (ed.) Wearable Objects and Curative Things: Materialist Approaches to the Intersections of Fashion, Art, Health and Medicine. Cham, Switzerland Palgrave Macmillan.

Locating Menswear – A Non-Hierarchical Exploration of Place and Community.
Groves, Andrew, Sprecher, Danielle, Jenkinson, Jo and Owen, Paul 2023. Locating Menswear – A Non-Hierarchical Exploration of Place and Community. Dress Devolution. Falmouth University 06 - 07 Jul 2023

The Repositioning of the Football Jersey from the Pitch to the Runway.
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. The Repositioning of the Football Jersey from the Pitch to the Runway. International Football History Conference . Hampden Park Stadium, Glasgow 30 Jun - 01 Jul 2023

Painted sheepskin coat, A/W1999
Groves, Andrew 2022. Painted sheepskin coat, A/W1999. Garden Museum 16 Mar - 19 Jun 2022

Through a Lens – A comparison of contested masculine identities as reflected in clothing, place, and portraiture
Groves, Andrew, Jenkinson, Jo and Earnshaw, John 2022. Through a Lens – A comparison of contested masculine identities as reflected in clothing, place, and portraiture. Futurescan 5: Conscious Communities . The University of Leeds 07 - 08 Sep 2022 Association of Fashion and Textiles Courses.

A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council
Groves, A. 2022. A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council. Critical Studies in Men's Fashion. 9 (2), pp. 187-206. https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00059_1

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive: A case study of garment-research as a pedagogical practice.
Groves, Andrew 2022. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive: A case study of garment-research as a pedagogical practice. IFFTI2022. University of Nottingham 05 - 08 Apr 2022 International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institute.

Face masks from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew 2021. Face masks from the Westminster Menswear Archive. Online Dec 2021 - Jan 2023

Clothing the Pandemic: A Virtual Exhibition of COVID-19 Face Masks from Around the World
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2021. Clothing the Pandemic: A Virtual Exhibition of COVID-19 Face Masks from Around the World. 23 Dec 2021

C.P. Library
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2021. C.P. Library. Darwen Library, Lancashire 01 - 30 Oct 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves, Andrew 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. London Gallery West 08 - 28 Jun 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves Andrew 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. https://opensea.io/collection/undercover-from-necessity-to-debris 11 May - 05 Jun 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. Online 11 May - 05 Jun 2021

Fashion and Materiality: Cultural Practices in Global Contexts, ed. by Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann
Rumball, H. 2021. Fashion and Materiality: Cultural Practices in Global Contexts, ed. by Heike Jenss and Viola Hofmann. Costume. 55 (1), pp. 147-148.

Contaminated Objects - Collecting and Exhibiting Face Masks during COVID-19
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2021. Contaminated Objects - Collecting and Exhibiting Face Masks during COVID-19. Clothing the Pandemic Conference. Online 01 Dec 2021 - 01 Mar 2022 ICOM Costume: ICOM International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume, Fashion and Textiles.

Undercover: The Migration of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2021. Undercover: The Migration of Face Coverings During COVID-19. The Many Faces of Migration: An Interdisciplinary Unconference. online 29 - 30 Apr 2021

In and Out of Fashion - Aligning Education with the International Fashion Calendar
Groves, Andrew 2021. In and Out of Fashion - Aligning Education with the International Fashion Calendar. The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education. American University of Paris 01 - 02 Oct 2021

Introduction
Groves, Andrew 2021. Introduction. in: C.P. Company 971-021: An Informal History of Italian Sportswear Italy Tristate International SA. pp. 13-15

Undercover
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Undercover.

Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection
Groves, Andrew 2021. Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection. Curative Things: Medicine/Fashion/Art. Leeds Arts University - Online 12 Feb 2021 Leeds Arts University.

Masking Masculinity – An overview of the mask in menswear before and after COVID-19
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Masking Masculinity – An overview of the mask in menswear before and after COVID-19. Face Off: The Provocation and Possibilities of Face Masks and Head Coverings. Manchester Metropolitan University 13 - 14 Jan 2021 Manchester Metropolitan University.

How waterproof were Ulsters? Analysing the waterproof claims of Ladies c 19th ulsters
Rumball, H. 2020. How waterproof were Ulsters? Analysing the waterproof claims of Ladies c 19th ulsters. Early tailored clothes for women, 1800-1875: TEAMS RIG Tailoring Group Meeting. Online - London 26 Nov 2020

Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2019. Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive . Ambika P3, London 24 Oct - 24 Nov 2019

As “a hedge, as a convenience, a good thing”: Elizabeth Petipher Cash’s continued fashioning of a Plain appearance
Rumball, H. 2019. As “a hedge, as a convenience, a good thing”: Elizabeth Petipher Cash’s continued fashioning of a Plain appearance. 107th CAA Annual Conference. New York, New York, United States 13 - 16 Feb 2016

Symposium Review: Reframing 19th-century Fashion and Dress Symposium
Rumball, H. 2019. Symposium Review: Reframing 19th-century Fashion and Dress Symposium. Centre for Design History, University of Brighton.

Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2019. Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive.

Invisible Men Conference
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2019. Invisible Men Conference . Invisible Men Conference. Ambika P3 29 - 29 Oct 2019

Invisible Men: an Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew 2019. Invisible Men: an Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive. University of Westminster. https://doi.org/10.34737/qqq4v

A Celebration of Plainness: Worthing Museum’s Quaker Wedding Bonnet, 1843
Dr Hannah Rumball 2018. A Celebration of Plainness: Worthing Museum’s Quaker Wedding Bonnet, 1843.

“It makes us cringe these days”: Killerton House National Trust and the alteration of Elizabeth Petipher Cash’s everyday Quaker bonnets
Rumball, H. 2018. “It makes us cringe these days”: Killerton House National Trust and the alteration of Elizabeth Petipher Cash’s everyday Quaker bonnets. Textiles and Dress from Below: Ordinary and everyday textiles and dress in museums and historic houses. University of Wolverhampton, United Kingdom 07 Jun 2018

A Celebration of Plainness: Worthing Museum’s Quaker Wedding Bonnet, 1843
Rumball, H. 2018. A Celebration of Plainness: Worthing Museum’s Quaker Wedding Bonnet, 1843.

Conference review: Restraint and Excess in Fashion: Costume Colloquium V, 16 – 20 November, 2016, Florence, Italy
Rumball, H. and Vaughan Kett, A. 2018. Conference review: Restraint and Excess in Fashion: Costume Colloquium V, 16 – 20 November, 2016, Florence, Italy. Centre for Design History, University of Brighton.

British Quaker Women's Fashionable Adaptation of their Plain Dress, 1860–1914
Hannah Rumball 2018. British Quaker Women's Fashionable Adaptation of their Plain Dress, 1860–1914. Costume. 52 (2), pp. 240-260. https://doi.org/10.3366/cost.2018.0070

British Quaker Women’s abandonment of Plain Quaker attire, 1860-1914
Rumball, H. 2017. British Quaker Women’s abandonment of Plain Quaker attire, 1860-1914. The Association of Dress Historians New Research in Dress History Conference . University of Brighton 25 Feb 2017

Conference Review: From Quakers to Cowboys
Rumball, H. 2017. Conference Review: From Quakers to Cowboys. Centre for Design History, University of Brighton.

The Overworked Body: An Anthology of 2000s Dress Curated by Matthew Linde
Linde, Matthew and Groves, Andrew 2017. The Overworked Body: An Anthology of 2000s Dress Curated by Matthew Linde. Goethe Institut, 38 Ludlow Street New York, NY 10002 10 Sep - 15 Oct 2017

Negotiating Simplicity and Extravagance in Nineteenth Century Quaker Dress: Restraint and Excess in the Clothing Worn by Eleanor Stephens Clark and Helen Bright Clark of Street
Rumball, H. 2016. Negotiating Simplicity and Extravagance in Nineteenth Century Quaker Dress: Restraint and Excess in the Clothing Worn by Eleanor Stephens Clark and Helen Bright Clark of Street. Costume Colloquium V: Restraint and Excess in Fashion and Dress. Florence, Italy 17 - 20 Nov 2016

Visibility and Invisibility
Rumball, H. 2016. Visibility and Invisibility. Critical Studies. 2, pp. 30-39.

Symposium: The Vanishing Art of Camouflage
Groves, Andrew 2016. Symposium: The Vanishing Art of Camouflage .

The Vanishing Art of Camouflage
Groves, Andrew and Leach, Robert 2016. The Vanishing Art of Camouflage.

Archetypes
Leach, Robert and Groves, Andrew 2015. Archetypes. London Gallery West, The Forum, University of Westminster Watford Road, Northwick Park, Middlesex HA1 3TP 15 May 2015

Basic fashion management 01: fashion merchandising
Grose, V. 2011. Basic fashion management 01: fashion merchandising. Worthing AVA Publishing.