Fashion design in London: the positioning of independent designers within the fashion fielD

Gornostaeva, G. and Rieple, A. 2014. Fashion design in London: the positioning of independent designers within the fashion fielD. Archives of Design Research. 27 (3), pp. 37-47. https://doi.org/10.15187/adr.2014.08.111.3.37

TitleFashion design in London: the positioning of independent designers within the fashion fielD
TypeJournal article
AuthorsGornostaeva, G. and Rieple, A.
Abstract

The aim of this paper is twofold. First, we add to the understanding of how the fashion industry's field operates and how particularities of interactions in this field influence the entrepreneurial performance of new entrants. Part of this is to add to the previous knowledge on the obstacles to the creation of sustainable production chains. Second, we aim to explore the hypothesis that in the UK independent fashion design businesses are not growing as effectively as they might be, because they are locked-in (Wenting and Frenken, 2011) in the design-driven, retail-led, London-based networks dominated by strong links with their former colleges, intermediaries and other institutions to the exclusion of potentially more productive relationships based outside the core of the field, whether elsewhere in the UK or internationally.

Our research addresses the need to reverse the high failure rate of designer businesses (TCSG, 2000). There is a need to find ways of accelerating entrepreneurship and economic development in the fashion industry.

Fashion is a creative and cultural industry and is an important source of innovation, knowledge creation, and economic growth. Fashion is typical of important world city-regions: Paris, New York, London, Milan, Tokyo, and is one of the UK’s most successful industries, with 8% of GDP (£21bn) and over 800,000 employees (BFC, 2012, 2010, 2009). It enhances the country’s image and boosts economic growth via exports and on-line sales as well as through direct sales to visitors. The UK can claim world-leading capabilities in both fashion design and retailing (BFC, 2012).

The high-end fashion sector sees between an estimated 20 and 50 new UK designer/wholesale labels looking to break into the market each year. Some designers have achieved £2 million p.a. turnover within four years of their label's launch. However, this high growth is achieved by only 10% of labels (DCMS, 2013). Some commentators acknowledge the disparity between the international visibility of fashion industry and the economic returns (McRobbie, 1998) and raise the question: Why do so many of the most talented designers go bankrupt within a few years of leaving college?

KeywordsFashion design; London; entrepreneurial performance; start-ups
JournalArchives of Design Research
Journal citation27 (3), pp. 37-47
ISSN2288-2987
Year2014
PublisherKorean Society of Design Science
Publisher's version
Digital Object Identifier (DOI)https://doi.org/10.15187/adr.2014.08.111.3.37
Publication dates
PublishedAug 2014
LicenseCC BY-NC 3.0

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The ‘wolves’ and ‘lambs’ of the creative city: the sustainability of film and television producers in London
Gornostaeva, G. 2009. The ‘wolves’ and ‘lambs’ of the creative city: the sustainability of film and television producers in London. Geographical Review. 99 (1), pp. 37-60. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1931-0846.2009.tb00417.x

Outsourcing for competitive advantage: an examination of seven legacy airlines
Rieple, A. and Helm, C. 2008. Outsourcing for competitive advantage: an examination of seven legacy airlines. Journal of Air Transport Management. 14 (5), pp. 280-285. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jairtraman.2008.06.002

The film and television industry in London's suburbs: lifestyle of the rich or losers' retreat?
Gornostaeva, G. 2008. The film and television industry in London's suburbs: lifestyle of the rich or losers' retreat? Creative Industries Journal. 1 (1), pp. 47-71. https://doi.org/10.1386/cij.1.1.47/1

Strategic management: theory and application
Haberberg, A. and Rieple, A. 2008. Strategic management: theory and application. Oxford Oxford University Press.

The night-time economy and sustainable town centres: dilemmas for local government
Roberts, M. and Gornostaeva, G. 2007. The night-time economy and sustainable town centres: dilemmas for local government. International Journal of Sustainable Development and Planning. 2 (2), pp. 1-19.

A paradox of alliance management: resource contamination in the recorded music industry
Gander, J., Haberberg, A. and Rieple, A. 2007. A paradox of alliance management: resource contamination in the recorded music industry. Journal of Organizational Behavior. 28 (5), pp. 607-624. https://doi.org/10.1002/job.463

How relevant is transaction cost economics to inter-firm relationships in the music industry?
Rieple, A. and Gander, J. 2007. How relevant is transaction cost economics to inter-firm relationships in the music industry? in: Towse, R. (ed.) Recent developments in cultural economics Cheltenham Edward Elgar.

Face-to-face interactions along the production chain and across networks: a study of film and television industry in London
Gornostaeva, G. 2007. Face-to-face interactions along the production chain and across networks: a study of film and television industry in London. International Journal of Knowledge, Culture and Change Management. 6 (7), pp. 45-54.

The value of clusters in the new product development process within three creative industry sectors: music, film and fashion
Rieple, A. and Gander, J. 2006. The value of clusters in the new product development process within three creative industry sectors: music, film and fashion. Strategic Management Society 26th Annual International Conference: Strategy and Governance in a World of Institutional Change. Vienna, Austria 29 Oct - 01 Nov 2006

Digitisation and face-to-face interactions: the example of the film industry in London
Gornostaeva, G. and Pratt, A.C. 2006. Digitisation and face-to-face interactions: the example of the film industry in London. The International Journal of Technology, Knowledge and Society. 1 (3), pp. 101-108.

Working Title Films, an independent producer: a story of internationalization in the film industry
Brunet, J. and Gornostaeva, G. 2006. Working Title Films, an independent producer: a story of internationalization in the film industry. International Journal of Arts Management. 9 (1), pp. 60-69.

Hybrid organizations as a strategy for supporting new product development
Rieple, A., Haberberg, A. and Gander, J. 2005. Hybrid organizations as a strategy for supporting new product development. Design Management Review. 16 (1), pp. 48-56.

First national survey evening and night-time activities in England
Roberts, M. and Gornostaeva, G. 2004. First national survey evening and night-time activities in England. London, UK The Civic Trust.

Understanding realised strategy: offerings, institutions, displays, resource allocation and transitions
Rieple, A., Gander, J. and Haberberg, A. 2004. Understanding realised strategy: offerings, institutions, displays, resource allocation and transitions. BAM 2004: Management Futures. St Andrews, UK 30 Aug - 01 Sep

Understanding why your new design ideas get blocked
Rieple, A. 2004. Understanding why your new design ideas get blocked. Design Management Journal. 15 (1).

Exploring the management of resources: how cellular biology helps redescribe alliance management within the music industry
Gander, J., Rieple, A. and Haberberg, A. 2004. Exploring the management of resources: how cellular biology helps redescribe alliance management within the music industry. Association of Cultural Economics International: 13th International Conference on Cultural Economics. Chicago, USA 02-05 Jun 2004

How relevant is transaction cost economics to inter-firm relationships in the music industry?
Gander, J. and Rieple, A. 2004. How relevant is transaction cost economics to inter-firm relationships in the music industry? Journal of Cultural Economics. 28 (1), pp. 57-79. https://doi.org/10.1023/B:JCEC.0000009958.80454.f6

Avoid strangling new ideas
Rieple, A. 2003. Avoid strangling new ideas. Design Matters.

Inter-organisational relationships in the worldwide popular recorded music industry
Gander, J. and Rieple, A. 2002. Inter-organisational relationships in the worldwide popular recorded music industry. Creativity and Innovation Management. 11 (4), pp. 248-254. https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-8691.00256

Factors contributing to the effectiveness of hybrid organisational forms: the case of new product development
Rieple, A., Gander, J. and Haberberg, A. 2002. Factors contributing to the effectiveness of hybrid organisational forms: the case of new product development. British Academy of Management Conference 2002 (BAM2002). London, UK 09 - 11 Sep 2002

Media cluster in London
Gornostaeva, G. and Cheshire, P. 2002. Media cluster in London. Cahiers de L’IAURIF. 135 (4), pp. 151-160.

A taxonomy of factors contributing to the effectiveness of hybrid organisational forms: the case of design's role in product innovation
Gander, J. and Rieple, A. 2002. A taxonomy of factors contributing to the effectiveness of hybrid organisational forms: the case of design's role in product innovation. 11th International Forum on Design Management Research and Education: Strategies, Resources & Tools for Design Management Leadership. Boston, USA 10-12 Jun 2002

Cities and Regions: comparable measures require comparable territories
Cheshire, P. and Gornostaeva, G. 2002. Cities and Regions: comparable measures require comparable territories. Cahiers de L’IAURIF. 135 (4), pp. 13-32.

Inter-organisational relationships in the worldwide popular recorded music industry
Rieple, A. and Gander, J. 2001. Inter-organisational relationships in the worldwide popular recorded music industry. Critical Management Studies Conference. Manchester, UK 11-13 Jul 2001

The strategic management of organisations
Haberberg, A. and Rieple, A. 2001. The strategic management of organisations. Harlow, UK FT Prentice Hall.

More useful Londons: the comparative development of alternative concepts of London
Cheshire, P. and Gornostaeva, G. 2001. More useful Londons: the comparative development of alternative concepts of London. Geographica Helvetica. 56 (3), pp. 179-192. https://doi.org/10.5194/gh-56-179-2001

From ‘mixed’ to ‘sustainable’: the challenge of the socio-economic development of localities in Docklands
Gornostaeva, G. and Campbell, N. 1998. From ‘mixed’ to ‘sustainable’: the challenge of the socio-economic development of localities in Docklands. Rising East: the journal of East London studies. 2 (2), pp. 102-133.

Suburbanization problems in the USSR: the case of Moscow
Gornostaeva, G. 1992. Suburbanization problems in the USSR: the case of Moscow. Espaces, Populations, Societes. 9 (2), pp. 349-357.

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