The Role of Networks in Fashion Designing: The disconnect between designers and manufacturers in London

Gornostaeva, G., Rieple, A. and Barnes, D. 2014. The Role of Networks in Fashion Designing: The disconnect between designers and manufacturers in London. Bohemia, E., Rieple, A., Liedtka, J. and Cooper, R. (ed.) 19th DMI International Design Management Research Conference Design Management in an Era of Disruption. London 02 - 04 Sep 2014 DMI.

TitleThe Role of Networks in Fashion Designing: The disconnect between designers and manufacturers in London
AuthorsGornostaeva, G., Rieple, A. and Barnes, D.
EditorsBohemia, E., Rieple, A., Liedtka, J. and Cooper, R.
TypeConference paper
Abstract

This paper is an empirical study of the role of networks in fashion designing in London. There is evidence that the relationship between new, small, fashion design firms and apparel manufacturing is one of the weakest points in the fashion production chain. Analysis is based on our interview data as well as a critical review of the relevant literature. We propose that these problems have two main causes: a) designers are locked-in to the retail-led, London based networks, which are dominated by strong links with the design colleges and industry-related institutions; b) as a consequence of this, their relationships with manufacturers lack trust, reciprocity and knowledge
exchange for successful prototyping and scaling up of production to be achieved. Negotiation of constraints and specificities of designs are made more difficult because of personal, cultural, linguistic, physical and
organizational differences, which create cognitive distance and incompatibility between the fields of fashion design and apparel manufacturing.

Year2014
Conference19th DMI International Design Management Research Conference Design Management in an Era of Disruption
PublisherDMI
Publication dates
Published12 Sep 2014
Journal citationpp. 1484-1508
Book titleProceedings of the 19th DMI: Academic Design Management Conference
ISBN9780615991528
Web address (URL) of conference proceedingshttp://theglobalstudio.eu/articles/2014_ADMC_Proceedings_PDF-A.pdf
Web address (URL)http://theglobalstudio.eu/articles/2014_ADMC_Proceedings_PDF-A.pdf

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Gornostaeva, G. 2012. Soviet film-making under the 'producership' of the party state (1955-1985). in: Dawson, A. and Holmes, S.P. (ed.) Working in the global film and television industries: creativity, systems, space, patronage Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 39-56

Reconceptualising e-business performance measurement using an innovation adoption framework
Barnes, D. and Hinton, C.M. 2012. Reconceptualising e-business performance measurement using an innovation adoption framework. International Journal of Productivity and Performance Management. 61 (5), pp. 502-517. https://doi.org/10.1108/17410401211232948

Web 2.0 and micro-businesses: An exploratory investigation
Barnes, D., Clear, F., Dyerson, R., Harindranath, G., Harris, L. and Rae, A. 2012. Web 2.0 and micro-businesses: An exploratory investigation. Journal of Small Business and Enterprise Development. 19 (4), pp. 687-711. https://doi.org/10.1108/14626001211277479

The creative underclass in the production of place: example of Camden Town in London
Gornostaeva, G. and Campbell, N. 2012. The creative underclass in the production of place: example of Camden Town in London. Journal of Urban Affairs. 34 (2), pp. 169-188. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-9906.2012.00609.x

The benefits of an e-business performance measurement system
Barnes, D. and Hinton, M. 2011. The benefits of an e-business performance measurement system. in: Enterprise IT Governance, Business Value and Performance Measurement IGI Global. pp. 158-169

Open Innovation and Locally Responsible Design
Koo, Y.R., Kim, J.J., Jung, H. and Rieple, A. 2011. Open Innovation and Locally Responsible Design. Include Conference. RCA, London 17 - 19 Apr 2011

Experiential Learning: Assessing Students’ Entrepreneurial Skills in Live Projects
Rieple, A. and Chang, J. Forthcoming. Experiential Learning: Assessing Students’ Entrepreneurial Skills in Live Projects. Academy of Management Conference. San Antonio, Texas 12 - 16 Aug 2011

Design Management in Services: A Case Study of the Design Management Competences Used in a Museum Exhibition that Focused on Increasing Social Inclusion
Pitsaki, P. and Rieple, A. 2011. Design Management in Services: A Case Study of the Design Management Competences Used in a Museum Exhibition that Focused on Increasing Social Inclusion. 1st Cambridge Academic Design Management Conference . Cambridge 07 - 08 Sep 2011 Cambridge University Press.

The strategic role of design in cultural products and services
Rieple, A. and Pitsaki, I. 2011. The strategic role of design in cultural products and services. 1st Cambridge Academic Design Management Conference . Cambridge 07 - 08 Sep 2011 Cambridge University Press.

The Olympics' employment and skills legacy: a literature review
Gornostaeva, G. 2011. The Olympics' employment and skills legacy: a literature review. University of Greenwich, Work and Employment Research Unit. https://doi.org/N1

A literature review of decision-making models and approaches for partner selection in agile supply chains
Wu, C. and Barnes, D. 2011. A literature review of decision-making models and approaches for partner selection in agile supply chains. Journal of Purchasing and Supply Management. 17 (4), pp. 256-274. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pursup.2011.09.002

Luxury redesigned: how the Ritz-Carlton uses experiential service design to position abundance in times of scarcity
Nixon, N.W. and Rieple, A. 2010. Luxury redesigned: how the Ritz-Carlton uses experiential service design to position abundance in times of scarcity. Design Management Journal. 5 (1), pp. 40-49. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1948-7177.2010.00015.x

A value chain analysis of the organic cotton industry: the case of UK retailers and Indian suppliers
Rieple, A. and Singh, R. 2010. A value chain analysis of the organic cotton industry: the case of UK retailers and Indian suppliers. Ecological Economics. 69 (11), pp. 2292-2302. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecolecon.2010.06.025

Outsourcing Strategies of Full-Service Airlines: An Application of Two Theoretical Perspectives
Rieple, A. and Helm, C. 2010. Outsourcing Strategies of Full-Service Airlines: An Application of Two Theoretical Perspectives. in: Walsh, C.R. (ed.) The Airline Industry: Strategies, Operations and Safety Nova Science Publishers. pp. 99-117

Institutionalizing idealism: the adoption of CSR practices
Haberberg, A., Gander, J., Rieple, A., Helm, C. and Martin-Castilla, J.I. 2010. Institutionalizing idealism: the adoption of CSR practices. Journal of Global Responsibility. 1 (2), pp. 366-381. https://doi.org/10.1108/20412561011079443

Formulating partner selection criteria for agile supply chains: A Dempster-Shafer belief acceptability optimisation approach
Wu, C. and Barnes, D. 2010. Formulating partner selection criteria for agile supply chains: A Dempster-Shafer belief acceptability optimisation approach. International Journal of Production Economics. 125 (2), pp. 284-293. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2010.02.010

National survey of SMEs' use of IT in four sectors
Dyerson, R., Harindranath, G. and Barnes, D. 2009. National survey of SMEs' use of IT in four sectors. Electronic Journal of Information Systems Evaluation. 12 (1), pp. 39-50.

ICT use in SMEs a comparison between the North West of England and the province of Genoa
Dyerson, R., Harindranath, G., Barnes, D. and Spinelli, R. 2009. ICT use in SMEs a comparison between the North West of England and the province of Genoa. ICETE 2009 - International Joint Conference on e-Business and Telecommunications. Milan, Italy 07 - 09 Jul 2009

Product development within a clustered environment: the case of apparel design firms
Rieple, A. and Gander, J. 2009. Product development within a clustered environment: the case of apparel design firms. Creative Industries Journal. 2 (3), pp. 273-289. https://doi.org/10.1386/cij.2.3.273_1

The governance of innovation in the film and television industry: a case study of London, UK
Pratt, A.C. and Gornostaeva, G. 2009. The governance of innovation in the film and television industry: a case study of London, UK. in: Pratt, A.C. and Jeffcutt, P. (ed.) Creativity, innovation and the cultural economy Routledge. pp. 119-136

Discovering effective performance measurement for e-business
Hinton, M. and Barnes, D. 2009. Discovering effective performance measurement for e-business. International Journal of Productivity and Performance Management. 58 (4), pp. 329-345. https://doi.org/10.1108/17410400910951008

Internationalization of the production process in the US film industry: the case of the United Kingdom
Gornostaeva, G. and Brunet, J. 2009. Internationalization of the production process in the US film industry: the case of the United Kingdom. International Journal of Arts Management. 12 (1), pp. 21-30.

The ‘wolves’ and ‘lambs’ of the creative city: the sustainability of film and television producers in London
Gornostaeva, G. 2009. The ‘wolves’ and ‘lambs’ of the creative city: the sustainability of film and television producers in London. Geographical Review. 99 (1), pp. 37-60. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1931-0846.2009.tb00417.x

An analytic network process-mixed integer multi-objective programming model for partner selection in agile supply chains
Wu, C., Barnes, D., Rosenberg, D. and Luo, X. 2009. An analytic network process-mixed integer multi-objective programming model for partner selection in agile supply chains. Production Planning and Control. 20 (3), pp. 254-275. https://doi.org/10.1080/09537280902856047

A model for continuous improvement in supplier selection in agile supply chains
Wu, C. and Barnes, D. 2009. A model for continuous improvement in supplier selection in agile supply chains. Knowledge and Process Management. 16 (3), pp. 85-110. https://doi.org/10.1002/kpm.327

Supplier selection in agile supply chains: An information-processing model and an illustration
Luo, X., Wu, C., Rosenberg, D. and Barnes, D. 2009. Supplier selection in agile supply chains: An information-processing model and an illustration. Journal of Purchasing and Supply Management. 15 (4), pp. 249-262. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pursup.2009.05.004

Outsourcing for competitive advantage: an examination of seven legacy airlines
Rieple, A. and Helm, C. 2008. Outsourcing for competitive advantage: an examination of seven legacy airlines. Journal of Air Transport Management. 14 (5), pp. 280-285. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jairtraman.2008.06.002

The film and television industry in London's suburbs: lifestyle of the rich or losers' retreat?
Gornostaeva, G. 2008. The film and television industry in London's suburbs: lifestyle of the rich or losers' retreat? Creative Industries Journal. 1 (1), pp. 47-71. https://doi.org/10.1386/cij.1.1.47/1

National survey of SMEs' use of IT in four sectors
Dyerson, R., Harindranath, G. and Barnes, D. 2008. National survey of SMEs' use of IT in four sectors. 2nd European Conference on Information Management and Evaluation, ECIME 2008. London, UK 11 - 12 Sep 2008

Performance measurement and performance management: The operations management perspective
Barnes, D. and Radnor, Z. 2008. Performance measurement and performance management: The operations management perspective. in: Thorpe R. and Holloway J. (ed.) Performance Management Palgrave Macmillan. pp. 89-106

ICT in small firms: Factors affecting the adoption and use of ICT in southeast England SMEs
Harindranath, G., Dyerson, R. and Barnes, D. 2008. ICT in small firms: Factors affecting the adoption and use of ICT in southeast England SMEs. 16th European Conference on Information Systems, ECIS 2008. Galway, Ireland 09 - 11 Jun 2008

The Benefits of e-business Performance Measurement Systems: A report for CIMA – the Chartered Institute of Management Accountants
Hinton, M. and Barnes, D. 2008. The Benefits of e-business Performance Measurement Systems: A report for CIMA – the Chartered Institute of Management Accountants. CIMA.

Strategic management: theory and application
Haberberg, A. and Rieple, A. 2008. Strategic management: theory and application. Oxford Oxford University Press.

The night-time economy and sustainable town centres: dilemmas for local government
Roberts, M. and Gornostaeva, G. 2007. The night-time economy and sustainable town centres: dilemmas for local government. International Journal of Sustainable Development and Planning. 2 (2), pp. 1-19.

A paradox of alliance management: resource contamination in the recorded music industry
Gander, J., Haberberg, A. and Rieple, A. 2007. A paradox of alliance management: resource contamination in the recorded music industry. Journal of Organizational Behavior. 28 (5), pp. 607-624. https://doi.org/10.1002/job.463

ICT adoption and use in UK SMEs
Harindranath, G., Dyerson, R. and Barnes, D. 2007. ICT adoption and use in UK SMEs. ECIME 2007: European Conference on Information Management and Evaluation. Montpellier, France 20 - 21 Sep 2007

Developing a framework to analyse the roles and relationships of online intermediaries
Barnes, D. and Hinton, M. 2007. Developing a framework to analyse the roles and relationships of online intermediaries. International Journal of Information Management. 27 (2), pp. 63-74. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijinfomgt.2006.04.003

Historical analysis of performance measurement and management in operations management
Radnor, Z.J. and Barnes, D. 2007. Historical analysis of performance measurement and management in operations management. International Journal of Productivity and Performance Management. 56 (5/6), pp. 384-396. https://doi.org/10.1108/17410400710757105

How relevant is transaction cost economics to inter-firm relationships in the music industry?
Rieple, A. and Gander, J. 2007. How relevant is transaction cost economics to inter-firm relationships in the music industry? in: Towse, R. (ed.) Recent developments in cultural economics Cheltenham Edward Elgar.

Face-to-face interactions along the production chain and across networks: a study of film and television industry in London
Gornostaeva, G. 2007. Face-to-face interactions along the production chain and across networks: a study of film and television industry in London. International Journal of Knowledge, Culture and Change Management. 6 (7), pp. 45-54.

Editorial
Barnes, D. 2006. Editorial. International Journal of Healthcare Technology and Management. 7 (3-4), pp. 183-186.

The value of clusters in the new product development process within three creative industry sectors: music, film and fashion
Rieple, A. and Gander, J. 2006. The value of clusters in the new product development process within three creative industry sectors: music, film and fashion. Strategic Management Society 26th Annual International Conference: Strategy and Governance in a World of Institutional Change. Vienna, Austria 29 Oct - 01 Nov 2006

Digitisation and face-to-face interactions: the example of the film industry in London
Gornostaeva, G. and Pratt, A.C. 2006. Digitisation and face-to-face interactions: the example of the film industry in London. The International Journal of Technology, Knowledge and Society. 1 (3), pp. 101-108.

Working Title Films, an independent producer: a story of internationalization in the film industry
Brunet, J. and Gornostaeva, G. 2006. Working Title Films, an independent producer: a story of internationalization in the film industry. International Journal of Arts Management. 9 (1), pp. 60-69.

Towards a framework for evaluating the business process performance of e-business investments
Hinton, M. and Barnes, D. 2005. Towards a framework for evaluating the business process performance of e-business investments. International Journal of Business Performance Management. 7 (1), pp. 87-99. https://doi.org/10.1504/IJBPM.2005.006245

Enhancing customer service operations in e-business: The emotional dimension
Barnes, D., Hinton, M. and Mieczkowska, S. 2005. Enhancing customer service operations in e-business: The emotional dimension. Journal of Electronic Commerce in Organizations. 3 (2) 2. https://doi.org/10.4018/jeco.2005040102

Hybrid organizations as a strategy for supporting new product development
Rieple, A., Haberberg, A. and Gander, J. 2005. Hybrid organizations as a strategy for supporting new product development. Design Management Review. 16 (1), pp. 48-56.

Avoiding the fate of the dotbombs: Lessons from three surviving dotcom start-ups
Barnes, D., Hinton, M. and Mieczkowska, S. 2004. Avoiding the fate of the dotbombs: Lessons from three surviving dotcom start-ups. Journal of Small Business and Enterprise Development. 11 (3), pp. 329-337. https://doi.org/10.1108/14626000410551582

A questionnaire operationalising Hayes and Wheelwright's four-stage concept
Rowbotham, F.E. and Barnes, D. 2004. A questionnaire operationalising Hayes and Wheelwright's four-stage concept. Journal of Manufacturing Technology Management. 15 (7), pp. 651-661. https://doi.org/10.1108/17410380410555899

Barriers to e-health business processes
Mieczkowska, S., Hinton, M. and Barnes, D. 2004. Barriers to e-health business processes. International Journal of Electronic Healthcare. 1 (1), pp. 47-59. https://doi.org/10.1504/ijeh.2004.004657

e-Business processes: Information and operations for competitive advantage
Mieczkowska, S., Barnes, D. and Hinton, M. 2004. e-Business processes: Information and operations for competitive advantage. in: Budd, L. and Harris, L. (ed.) e-Economy: Rhetoric or Business Reality? Taylor & Francis. pp. 163-186

Testing the four-stage model of the strategic role of operations in a UK context
Barnes, D. and Rowbotham, F. 2004. Testing the four-stage model of the strategic role of operations in a UK context. International Journal of Operations and Production Management. 24 (7), pp. 701-720. https://doi.org/10.1108/01443570410542000

Managing the transition from bricks-and-mortar to clicks-and-mortar: A business process perspective
Barnes, D., Hinton, M. and Mieczkowska, S. 2004. Managing the transition from bricks-and-mortar to clicks-and-mortar: A business process perspective. Knowledge and Process Management: the Journal of Corporate Transportation. 11 (3), pp. 199-209. https://doi.org/10.1002/kpm.205

E-commerce in the old economy: Three case study examples
Barnes, D., Hinton, M. and Mieczkowska, S. 2004. E-commerce in the old economy: Three case study examples. Journal of Manufacturing Technology Management. 15 (7), pp. 607-617. https://doi.org/10.1108/17410380410555853

The strategic management of operations in e-business
Barnes, D., Hinton, M. and Mieczkowska, S. 2004. The strategic management of operations in e-business. Production Planning and Control. 15 (5), pp. 484-494. https://doi.org/10.1080/09537280410001714260

First national survey evening and night-time activities in England
Roberts, M. and Gornostaeva, G. 2004. First national survey evening and night-time activities in England. London, UK The Civic Trust.

Understanding realised strategy: offerings, institutions, displays, resource allocation and transitions
Rieple, A., Gander, J. and Haberberg, A. 2004. Understanding realised strategy: offerings, institutions, displays, resource allocation and transitions. BAM 2004: Management Futures. St Andrews, UK 30 Aug - 01 Sep

Understanding why your new design ideas get blocked
Rieple, A. 2004. Understanding why your new design ideas get blocked. Design Management Journal. 15 (1).

Exploring the management of resources: how cellular biology helps redescribe alliance management within the music industry
Gander, J., Rieple, A. and Haberberg, A. 2004. Exploring the management of resources: how cellular biology helps redescribe alliance management within the music industry. Association of Cultural Economics International: 13th International Conference on Cultural Economics. Chicago, USA 02-05 Jun 2004

How relevant is transaction cost economics to inter-firm relationships in the music industry?
Gander, J. and Rieple, A. 2004. How relevant is transaction cost economics to inter-firm relationships in the music industry? Journal of Cultural Economics. 28 (1), pp. 57-79. https://doi.org/10.1023/B:JCEC.0000009958.80454.f6

Avoid strangling new ideas
Rieple, A. 2003. Avoid strangling new ideas. Design Matters.

Developing a questionnaire for the four-stage model of operations strategy
Barnes, D. and Rowbotham, F. 2003. Developing a questionnaire for the four-stage model of operations strategy. Production Planning and Control. 14 (7), pp. 613-622. https://doi.org/10.1080/09537280310001626205

Competitive advantage through e-operations
Barnes, D., Hinton, M. and Mieczkowska, S. 2003. Competitive advantage through e-operations. Total Quality Management and Business Excellence. 14 (6), pp. 659-675. https://doi.org/10.1080/1478336032000053816

Integrating operations and information strategy in e-business
Barnes, D., Mieczkowska, S. and Hinton, M. 2003. Integrating operations and information strategy in e-business. European Management Journal. 21 (5), pp. 626-634. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0263-2373(03)00111-7

Inter-organisational relationships in the worldwide popular recorded music industry
Gander, J. and Rieple, A. 2002. Inter-organisational relationships in the worldwide popular recorded music industry. Creativity and Innovation Management. 11 (4), pp. 248-254. https://doi.org/10.1111/1467-8691.00256

Developing a framework to investigate the impact of e-commerce on the management of internal business processes: E-commerce and the management of internal business processes
Barnes, D., Hinton, M. and Mieczkowska, S. 2002. Developing a framework to investigate the impact of e-commerce on the management of internal business processes: E-commerce and the management of internal business processes. Knowledge and Process Management: the Journal of Corporate Transportation. 9 (3), pp. 133-142. https://doi.org/10.1002/kpm.144

The complexities of the manufacturing strategy formation process in practice
Barnes, D. 2002. The complexities of the manufacturing strategy formation process in practice. International Journal of Operations and Production Management. 22 (10), pp. 1090-1111. https://doi.org/10.1108/01443570210446324

The manufacturing strategy formation process in small and medium-sized enterprises
Barnes, D. 2002. The manufacturing strategy formation process in small and medium-sized enterprises. Journal of Small Business and Enterprise Development. https://doi.org/10.1108/14626000210427384

Factors contributing to the effectiveness of hybrid organisational forms: the case of new product development
Rieple, A., Gander, J. and Haberberg, A. 2002. Factors contributing to the effectiveness of hybrid organisational forms: the case of new product development. British Academy of Management Conference 2002 (BAM2002). London, UK 09 - 11 Sep 2002

Media cluster in London
Gornostaeva, G. and Cheshire, P. 2002. Media cluster in London. Cahiers de L’IAURIF. 135 (4), pp. 151-160.

A taxonomy of factors contributing to the effectiveness of hybrid organisational forms: the case of design's role in product innovation
Gander, J. and Rieple, A. 2002. A taxonomy of factors contributing to the effectiveness of hybrid organisational forms: the case of design's role in product innovation. 11th International Forum on Design Management Research and Education: Strategies, Resources & Tools for Design Management Leadership. Boston, USA 10-12 Jun 2002

Cities and Regions: comparable measures require comparable territories
Cheshire, P. and Gornostaeva, G. 2002. Cities and Regions: comparable measures require comparable territories. Cahiers de L’IAURIF. 135 (4), pp. 13-32.

Research methods for the empirical investigation of the process of formation of operations strategy
Barnes, D. 2001. Research methods for the empirical investigation of the process of formation of operations strategy. International Journal of Operations and Production Management. 21 (8), pp. 1076-1095. https://doi.org/10.1108/eum0000000005586

Inter-organisational relationships in the worldwide popular recorded music industry
Rieple, A. and Gander, J. 2001. Inter-organisational relationships in the worldwide popular recorded music industry. Critical Management Studies Conference. Manchester, UK 11-13 Jul 2001

The strategic management of organisations
Haberberg, A. and Rieple, A. 2001. The strategic management of organisations. Harlow, UK FT Prentice Hall.

More useful Londons: the comparative development of alternative concepts of London
Cheshire, P. and Gornostaeva, G. 2001. More useful Londons: the comparative development of alternative concepts of London. Geographica Helvetica. 56 (3), pp. 179-192. https://doi.org/10.5194/gh-56-179-2001

In search of the source of the stream: the process of formation of manufacturing strategy in small and medium-sized enterprises
Barnes, D. 2000. In search of the source of the stream: the process of formation of manufacturing strategy in small and medium-sized enterprises. Journal of Small Business and Enterprise Development. 7 (3), pp. 261-271. https://doi.org/10.1108/eum0000000006844

From ‘mixed’ to ‘sustainable’: the challenge of the socio-economic development of localities in Docklands
Gornostaeva, G. and Campbell, N. 1998. From ‘mixed’ to ‘sustainable’: the challenge of the socio-economic development of localities in Docklands. Rising East: the journal of East London studies. 2 (2), pp. 102-133.

Suburbanization problems in the USSR: the case of Moscow
Gornostaeva, G. 1992. Suburbanization problems in the USSR: the case of Moscow. Espaces, Populations, Societes. 9 (2), pp. 349-357.

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