Further dissemination and recognition

Over a period of 18 days, Invisible Men attracted 5,692 visitors, while its press and media coverage achieved an estimated 1.12 million coverage views. 

The exhibition gained significant international press and media coverage including Artforum, CNN, Financial Times, i-D magazine, Dazed, Evening Standard, LOVE magazine, Le Monde, Paper Journal, SHOWstudio, The Guardian, Independent, Vogue, V Man magazine, AnOther magazine, and 1Granary

The success of the exhibition demonstrated Grove’s hypothesis that there is a significant public interest in menswear as a distinct design discipline. With no precedent for such a large-scale exhibition of menswear in the UK, the success of Invisible Men reduces the perceived risk that has previously stopped menswear exhibitions being staged. 

Several forthcoming exhibitions have asked to borrow objects from the WMA collection, including Manchester Art Gallery for Dandy Style in 2021, and the V&A and the National Army Museum in 2022.

TALKS AND PRESENTATIONS

Groves, A, Symposium: ‘The Vanishing Art of Camouflage’, University of Westminster, London, November 7, 2016 

Sprecher, D, ‘The University of Westminster Menswear Archive: Developing a New Resource’, Masculinities Hub Symposium: Masculinities and Archives, London College of Fashion, November 18, 2017. 

Reviewed by Paul Bench in Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, 5: 1&2, 2018 

Sprecher, D, ‘Knitwear in the Westminster Menswear Archive: Building a Collection’, In the Loop at 10, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, July 19, 2018 

Groves, A, ‘The abandonment of menswear – hidden identities from the Westminster Menswear Archive’, IFFTI, Manchester Metropolitan University, April 10–11, 2019

 Groves A, Sprecher, D, ‘Invisible Men: An anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive’, Researcher Network Conference, ‘Research Matters’, University of Westminster, June 18, 2019 

Groves, A, Sprecher, D, Invisible Men conference, University of Westminster, October 29, 2019 

Groves, A, Sprecher, D, Invisible Men: CP Company, 18Montrose, London, October 25 – November 24, 2019 

Groves, A, Sprecher, D, Faiers, J, ‘In Conversation: Lorenzo Osti & Moreno Ferrari’, University of Westminster, October 31, 2019 

Groves, A, Sprecher, D, Mower, S, ‘In Conversation: Samuel Ross’, University of Westminster, November 7, 2019 

Groves, A. Sprecher, D, Rust, I, ‘In Conversation: Aitor Throup’, University of Westminster, November 21, 2019

Sprecher, D, ‘The Westminster Menswear Archive: Building a collection’, Redressing Diversity: Making hidden histories visible, DATS: Dress and Textile Specialists, Norwich, November 29, 2019 

Sprecher, D, ‘Invisible Men: An anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive’, Millennial Masculinities: Queers, Pimp Daddies and Lumbersexuals, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand, December 10 –11, 2019

ARTICLES AND REVIEWS

‘A Londres cet automne, une exposition inedite sur l’habit de travail masculin’, August 2019, Les Inrockuptibles 

‘A huge exhibition about British menswear is set to open in London’, Dazed, August 13, 2019 

‘Westminster Menswear Archive opening new exhibition, Invisible Men’, SHOWstudio, August 13, 2019 

Young, S, ’Invisible Men: Largest ever menswear exhibition in UK is coming to London’, Independent, August 14, 2019 

Wightman-Stone, D, ‘Westminster Menswear Archive to stage largest menswear exhibition’, Fashion United, August 14, 2019 

Summers, N, ‘Invisible Men exhibition’, Proper magazine, August 14, 2019

‘The biggest-ever exhibition of menswear is coming to London’, Another Man, August 14, 2019 

O’Flaherty, M C, ’Invisible Men: Charting workwear’s influence on fashion’, How to Spend It, FT, September 29, 2019 

‘Invisible Men: An insight into the Westminster Menswear Archive’, Sevenstore, October 2019 

Dove, R, ‘Your guide to the new season of menswear’, Evening Standard, October 10, 2019 

Summers, N, ‘Invisible Men exhibition: In conversation with Lorenzo Osti & Moreno Ferrari’, Proper magazine, October 15, 2019 

‘Collaborations all round: from Supreme x Levi’s to RedValentino for Harrods’, Love magazine, October 21, 2019 

Anderson, J, ‘How much has men’s style changed in the last 30 years?’, i-D, October 23, 2019 Bardsley, E, ‘Andrew Groves: “Menswear is about finding individuality within uniformity”’ 1 Granary, October 25, 2019 

Smith, C, ‘Things to do, London – Invisible Men: Westminster Menswear Archive’, Style Cartel, October 26, 2019 

‘Voir Chandigarh, se regaler au Buffet, admirer des lumieres… Les 7 idees de la semaine’, Le Monde, October 27, 2019

Shepherd, H, ‘Has fashion forgotten about menswear?’, INDIE Magazine, October 28, 2019 

Moss, J, ‘Inside the UK’s largest-ever menswear exhibition’, Another Man, October 28, 2019 

‘Menswear has never been so casual. So why is the image of a man in uniform still so alluring?’, CNN, October 30, 2019 

Cochrane, L, ‘Pitch perfect: Why vintage football shirts are a style game-changer’, The Guardian, October 31, 2019 ‘

Invisible Men: An anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive’ CREAM, October – November 2019 

Harrington, K, ‘Best of blue: A denim day at the Westminster Menswear Archive!’, Trademark Blue, November 2019 

Phillips, J, ‘Radiant; Andrew Groves knows’, Cent magazine, November 1, 2019

  ‘Invisible Men exhibition – Westminster Menswear Archive’, Paper Journal, November 18, 2019 

Rozyc, M, ‘Invisible Men: Moda męska wychodzi z cienia’, Vogue Polska, November 19, 2019 

Ala Champ, ‘Invisible Men’, Champ magazine, November 24, 2019 

Sims, J, ‘Can clothes ever be a good investment?’, The Journal, Mr Porter, December 10, 2019 

Hopkins, R, ‘Tailored for the terraces’, Champions Journal, January 2020 

Costume Society Newsletter (2020) ‘Valerie Cumming, The Costume Society Review.pdf’. 

Thompson, M, ‘Invisible Men: Menswear through history’, overtimeonline.co.uk

CreatorsGroves, Andrew
Description

Groves led the project to establish and launch the WMA in 2016, with the purpose of redressing the historical omission
of menswear in collections of dress, fashion research, and fashion exhibitions. As an archive, the WMA is conceived as a
distinct non-hierarchical approach to the collection and taxonomy of cloth-based objects, challenging the orthodoxy of
traditional approaches to dress history. The WMA’s collection principle and taxonomy proposes instead a parity of objects, by interspersing workwear, uniforms and designer garments. The exhibition Invisible Men explored the design language of menswear and exposed its reliance on a fundamentally unquestioning reworking of archetypal functional garments of “the working man.” The exhibition enhanced understanding of the material design language of menswear, which focused predominantly on the replication of garments intended for specific industrial, technical or military use. It also addressed how this absence denies opportunities to understand male dress and masculinities. Over a period of 18 days, Invisible Men attracted 5,692 visitors, while its press and media coverage achieved an estimated 1.12 million coverage views. The exhibition gained significant international press and media coverage, indicating that there is a significant public interest in menswear as a distinct design discipline. Garments from the WMA are scheduled to be seen at Manchester Art Gallery for Dandy Style in 2021, and the V&A and National Army Museum in 2022.

Portfolio itemsInvisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Invisible Men Conference
Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Year2019
PublisherUniversity of Westminster
Web address (URL)https://www.invisiblemenexhibition.com/
KeywordsCREAM Portfolio
Digital Object Identifier (DOI)https://doi.org/10.34737/qqq4v

Portfolio items

Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2019. Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive . Ambika P3, London 24 Oct - 24 Nov 2019

Invisible Men Conference
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2019. Invisible Men Conference . Invisible Men Conference. Ambika P3 29 - 29 Oct 2019

Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2019. Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive.

Related outputs

Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion . Ambika P3, University of Westminster, 35 Marylebone Road, London, NW1 5LS 12 - 28 Apr 2024

Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Westminster Menswear Archive. Fashion Theory. Advanced online publication. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2024.2423585

Tailored by Umbro, Tailored by England: Constructing Englishness Through Cut, Fit, and Style
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Tailored by Umbro, Tailored by England: Constructing Englishness Through Cut, Fit, and Style. A Century of Umbro and the Aesthetic of Sporting Englishness. Manchester Metropolitan University 09 Oct 2024

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archives
Groves, Andrew 2024. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archives. Foundational. Exploring the Legacies and Impacts of Foundational Art & Design Education. Online 18 Jun 2024

Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Umbro 100: Sportswear x Fashion . London Westminster Menswear Archive.

Curatorial Continuum: Symbiotic inspiration between fashion collections and the fashion industry (round table)
Groves, Andrew, Sprecher, Danielle, Beach, Hannah and Hitchcock, Fenella 2024. Curatorial Continuum: Symbiotic inspiration between fashion collections and the fashion industry (round table). Beyond the Blockbuster: Exhibiting Fashion Now. Museum of London Docklands and London College of Fashion 30 - 31 May 2024

Admiral and the Aesthetic Merit of Design
Groves, Andrew 2024. Admiral and the Aesthetic Merit of Design. in: MacDonald, R. (ed.) Admiral: 50 Years of the Replica Shirt Glasgow Halcyon Publishing.

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2024. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive. London Bloomsbury Visual Arts.

Various fanzines dedicated to the casual subculture
Groves, Andrew 2023. Various fanzines dedicated to the casual subculture. 25 Kent Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11249 20 - 23 Jul 2023

BOG - Decoding the Details with the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Duffy, Eilidh 2023. BOG - Decoding the Details with the Westminster Menswear Archive. London

Representing Black British Music in the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. Representing Black British Music in the Westminster Menswear Archive. UoW Annual Black Music Symposium at the British Library. British Library 20 Oct 2023

Invisible Men in Black
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2023. Invisible Men in Black. ICOM Costume: International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume, Fashion and Textiles Annual Meeting 2023. National Museums of Scotland, Edinburgh 24 - 27 Sep 2023

Investigating the Value of UK Higher Education Fashion and Textile Collections
Groves, Andrew, Briggs-Goode, Amanda, Britt, Helena and Arnold, Kevin 2023. Investigating the Value of UK Higher Education Fashion and Textile Collections. Archiving Fashion Conference: Mapping Fashion Collections. Fashion Institute of Technology, 300 7th Avenue, New York, NY 10001 11 - 11 Nov 2023

Tailored by Umbro: Football, fashion and the construction and reconstruction of Englishness through cut, fit, and style
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2023. Tailored by Umbro: Football, fashion and the construction and reconstruction of Englishness through cut, fit, and style. 2023 British Society of Sport History Conference. Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester 24 - 25 Aug 2023

Linen in Menswear 1800 - present
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. Linen in Menswear 1800 - present. in: Camilleri, A. (ed.) Le Lin, fibre de civilisation(s) Paris, France Actes Sud.

Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection
Groves, Andrew 2023. Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection. in: Woolley, D., Johnstone, F., Sampson, E. and Chambers, P. (ed.) Wearable Objects and Curative Things: Materialist Approaches to the Intersections of Fashion, Art, Health and Medicine. Palgrave Macmillan.

Locating Menswear – A Non-Hierarchical Exploration of Place and Community.
Groves, Andrew, Sprecher, Danielle, Jenkinson, Jo and Owen, Paul 2023. Locating Menswear – A Non-Hierarchical Exploration of Place and Community. Dress Devolution. Falmouth University 06 - 07 Jul 2023

The Repositioning of the Football Jersey from the Pitch to the Runway.
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2023. The Repositioning of the Football Jersey from the Pitch to the Runway. International Football History Conference . Hampden Park Stadium, Glasgow 30 Jun - 01 Jul 2023

Painted sheepskin coat, A/W1999
Groves, Andrew 2022. Painted sheepskin coat, A/W1999. Garden Museum 16 Mar - 19 Jun 2022

Through a Lens – A comparison of contested masculine identities as reflected in clothing, place, and portraiture
Groves, Andrew, Jenkinson, Jo and Earnshaw, John 2022. Through a Lens – A comparison of contested masculine identities as reflected in clothing, place, and portraiture. Futurescan 5: Conscious Communities . The University of Leeds 07 - 08 Sep 2022 Association of Fashion and Textiles Courses.

A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council
Groves, A. 2022. A casual obsession: Inside the British Sock Fetish Council. Critical Studies in Men's Fashion. 9 (2), pp. 187-206. https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00059_1

Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive: A case study of garment-research as a pedagogical practice.
Groves, Andrew 2022. Inside the Westminster Menswear Archive: A case study of garment-research as a pedagogical practice. IFFTI2022. University of Nottingham 05 - 08 Apr 2022 International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institute.

Face masks from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves, Andrew 2021. Face masks from the Westminster Menswear Archive. Online Dec 2021 - Jan 2023

Clothing the Pandemic: A Virtual Exhibition of COVID-19 Face Masks from Around the World
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2021. Clothing the Pandemic: A Virtual Exhibition of COVID-19 Face Masks from Around the World. 23 Dec 2021

C.P. Library
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2021. C.P. Library. Darwen Library, Lancashire 01 - 30 Oct 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves, Andrew 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. London Gallery West 08 - 28 Jun 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves Andrew 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Debris: The Pollution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. https://opensea.io/collection/undercover-from-necessity-to-debris 11 May - 05 Jun 2021

Undercover – From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Undercover – From Necessity to Luxury: The Evolution of Face Coverings During COVID-19. Online 11 May - 05 Jun 2021

Contaminated Objects - Collecting and Exhibiting Face Masks during COVID-19
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2021. Contaminated Objects - Collecting and Exhibiting Face Masks during COVID-19. Clothing the Pandemic Conference. Online 01 Dec 2021 - 01 Mar 2022 ICOM Costume: ICOM International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume, Fashion and Textiles.

Undercover: The Migration of Face Coverings During COVID-19
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, Danielle 2021. Undercover: The Migration of Face Coverings During COVID-19. The Many Faces of Migration: An Interdisciplinary Unconference. online 29 - 30 Apr 2021

In and Out of Fashion - Aligning Education with the International Fashion Calendar
Groves, Andrew 2021. In and Out of Fashion - Aligning Education with the International Fashion Calendar. The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education. American University of Paris 01 - 02 Oct 2021

Introduction
Groves, Andrew 2021. Introduction. in: C.P. Company 971-021: An Informal History of Italian Sportswear Italy Tristate International SA. pp. 13-15

Undercover
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Undercover.

Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection
Groves, Andrew 2021. Palliative Prototypes or Therapeutic Functionality? Examining C.P. Company’s Urban Protection Collection. Curative Things: Medicine/Fashion/Art. Leeds Arts University - Online 12 Feb 2021 Leeds Arts University.

Masking Masculinity – An overview of the mask in menswear before and after COVID-19
Groves, Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2021. Masking Masculinity – An overview of the mask in menswear before and after COVID-19. Face Off: The Provocation and Possibilities of Face Masks and Head Coverings. Manchester Metropolitan University 13 - 14 Jan 2021 Manchester Metropolitan University.

Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Sprecher, Danielle and Groves, Andrew 2019. Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive . Ambika P3, London 24 Oct - 24 Nov 2019

Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2019. Invisible Men: An Anthology from the Westminster Menswear Archive.

Invisible Men Conference
Groves Andrew and Sprecher, D. 2019. Invisible Men Conference . Invisible Men Conference. Ambika P3 29 - 29 Oct 2019

The Overworked Body: An Anthology of 2000s Dress Curated by Matthew Linde
Linde, Matthew and Groves, Andrew 2017. The Overworked Body: An Anthology of 2000s Dress Curated by Matthew Linde. Goethe Institut, 38 Ludlow Street New York, NY 10002 10 Sep - 15 Oct 2017

Symposium: The Vanishing Art of Camouflage
Groves, Andrew 2016. Symposium: The Vanishing Art of Camouflage .

The Vanishing Art of Camouflage
Groves, Andrew and Leach, Robert 2016. The Vanishing Art of Camouflage.

ARCHETYPES
Leach, Robert and Groves, Andrew 2015. ARCHETYPES . London Gallery West, The Forum, University of Westminster Watford Road, Northwick Park, Middlesex HA1 3TP 15 May 2015

Permalink - https://westminsterresearch.westminster.ac.uk/portfolio/qqq4v/invisible-men-an-anthology-from-the-westminster-menswear-archive


Designer Aitor Throup discusses his work and the importance of archives during a late-night special event, Ambika P3, London, November 21, 2019
Designer Aitor Throup discusses his work and the importance of archives during a late-night special event, Ambika P3, London, November 21, 2019